Nantes: Encounter with the Grand Elephant

Positioned on the mouth of the Loire River, Nantes had been one of France’s most important ports for centuries. The Celts were the first inhabitants of this land, followed by the Romans, and the Bretons in the 10th century. Until France formed a union with Brittany in 1532, the city was the capital of the Duchy of Brittany.

Nantes became the country’s largest port by the 18th century, and later, a center of shipbuilding and food processing during the second half of the 19th century. When a new shipyard was built in Saint-Nazaire in the 20th century, Nantes gradually lost its importance as a commercial hub. But it has reinvented itself into a thriving cultural city.

Though Nantes today is the capital of Pays de la Loire (Loire countries), its culture, architecture, and history belong to Britanny. This is clearly reflected in Château des Ducs de Bretagne (The Castle of the Duke of Brittany) located in the heart of the city. Constructed in 1207 and rebuilt in 1466, this castle was home to the Dukes of an independent Brittany.

It features a Flamboyant-Gothic style ducal residence, an expansive courtyard, as well as a 500-meter fortified wall punctuated by seven turrets. The château underwent a massive renovation in the 1990s. It has now turned into Nantes History Museum, displaying the past, the present, and the future of the city.

Another monument of Nantes is the fanciful LU Tower. Topped with an equally beautiful cupola, this unmistakable tower is the remnant of an old Lefeuvre Utile (LU) factory. For those who are not familiar with this name, it is the manufacturer of the world-famous Petit Beurre biscuits. The factory was in operation for a century before closing its doors permanently in 1989.

Today, the tower is preserved as a reminiscence of Nantes’ industrial period. The factory, on the other hand, has been transformed into an art venue since the turn of the century. And LU becomes “Lieu Unique”, which means “a unique spot”.

Despite all the above-mentioned attractions, Les Machine de L’ile is the main reason that drew me to Nantes. Occupied a former shipyard, this unusual art project is the work of Fraçois Delarozière and Pierre Orefice. They create a collection of experimental machines that imitate plants, insects, and animals.

A collection of machines that imitate plants, insects and animals.

In this unusual gallery, visitors can watch a heron with an 8-meters long wingspan soaring gracefully in the air. They can also observe a fearful spider walking around with its gigantic legs or a giant caterpillar that moves swiftly along a tree trunk. The warehouse resembles a performance area where each individual machine puts on a mini-show. And the best thing is that you might have the chance to ride one of them.

However, the pièce de résistance of the whole project is the Grand Éléphant – a 12-meters high elephant made of 48 tonnes of steel and wood. It can move (very slowly) and carry up to 50 people at one time. The elephant can also flap its ears and spray water from its trunk. Standing on the back of this majestic creature feels like being on the fourth floor of a moveable house. It is way more extravagant than riding a real elephant, and you definitely won’t be ridden with guilt.