Binnenhof at night

The Hague: Netherlands’ Royal and Political Heart

Though Amsterdam is widely known as the Dutch capital, the royal family and the government have been situated in The Hague since the 16th century. This seaside city boasts, therefore, a more regal atmosphere, with palaces and noble estates lining leafy boulevards.

For nearly 500 years, The Hague had been the administrative center and the royal capital of the Netherlands. That changed in 1806 when Louis Bonaparte – Napoleon’s brother and King of Holland – brought his court to Amsterdam. But he could never settle on the location for his capital city. Hence, the Dutch government didn’t have a permanent seat for a while. Eight years later, as the French had been expelled from the Benelux, the government returned to The Hague. However, the title of the capital remained with Amsterdam.

As the seat of the parliament and residence of the monarchs, The Hague looks more spacious and somewhat greener than other Dutch cities. Its historic core isn’t ringed by canals and walls. Instead, it incorporates large estates, parks, and boulevards around natural streams. Many of these buildings still serve their original function as homes for diplomats and wealthy Dutch families. There are some close-knitted streets in the city center dating back to the late Middle Ages. They weave past luxury shops, elegant boutiques, and a centuries-old arcade, before ending up at Binnenhof – the city’s origin.

De Passage – The Netherlands’ oldest shopping arcade

1. Binnenhof

Setting on the reflective Lake Hofvijver, Binnenhof is literally the heart of The Hague. This palatial complex was founded in the 13th century as the residence of the counts of Holland. But since 1584 it has become the seat of the Dutch government, with both houses have been located here. Thus, Binnenhof is counted among the world’s oldest parliamentary buildings that are still in use.

In terms of architecture, this Gothic castle features four wings with different styles. They are arranged around a vast courtyard that was once used for executions. A majestic brick structure with a heavy timber roof, named Ridderzaal or Hall of Knights, dominates the central area. It originates as a ballroom but is now mainly used for official royal receptions, and inter-parliamentary conferences. The hall also contains the throne where the King delivers the annual speech to open the parliament on Prinsjesdag.

Binnenhof – the political heart of the Netherlands
Hall of Knights in Binnenhof
Binnenhof at night
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2. Peace Palace

Admittedly, the first time I heard about the Peace Palace was in 2016 when the Philipines won a landmark ruling about the South China Sea. The name “The Hague” and images of this building flooded the Vietnamese media, and since then I had been eager to have a look at this temple of international law and justice.

A peaceful oasis admist a busy city.

Opened in the early 20th century, the palace itself resembles a classical Neo-Renaissance residence in Northern Europe, with a red-brick exterior, a black-tiled roof, turrets, and a spacious terrace. Two clock towers, one big and one small are prominently placed on either side of the building. They mark the palace’s most important spaces – the courtrooms.

A vast and leafy garden embraces the palace, shielding it from the bustling city life. The architect deliberately selected trees and shrubs with small leaves, so that as much light as possible can pour into this peaceful oasis. Today, the Peace Palace is home to three high-profile judicial institutions: the Permanent Court of Arbitration, the International Court of Justice, and The Hague Academy of International Law.

A summer day at the Peace Palace

3. Scheveningen

Apart from its amazing palaces and residences, The Hague is the only Dutch city with a beach directly on the North Sea. In fact, its northernmost district – Scheveningen – is the most popular beach resort in the Benelux region, welcoming about 10 million visitors a year. The area has an 11km-long sandy beach, a promenade, and a long pier completed with a bungee platform.

A grandios hotel, the Amrâth Kurhaus, dominates the skyline of Scheveningen beach. Dating back to 1885, it boasts itself as the country’s oldest bathhouse. And the historic ambiance is still notable across its majestic facade and lavishly decorated foyer.

Scheveningen Beach

Tips for visiting The Hague

  • The Hague is easily accessible by trains from Rotterdam (20 minutes) and Amsterdam (50 minutes), making it an ideal day-trip destination.
  • Though the royal residence, Paleis Noordeinde, isn’t visitable, it is just a short stroll from the Binnenhof. Visitors can admire the amazing architecture of this Renaissance palace.
  • A few days a year, the imposing doors of the Peace Palace are opened to the public. It costs around €14.50 per person and should be booked ahead on their website. Security is high, thus a passport or an EU identity card must be shown on entry. Unfortunately, there is no guided tour on offer at this moment.
  • To Scheveningen beach, take Tram 1, 9, or 11 from the city center (direction Scheveningen Noorderstrand or Harbour). After just 20 minutes, you can enjoy, the sun, the wind and the North Sea.
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9 thoughts on “The Hague: Netherlands’ Royal and Political Heart”

  1. justbluedutch – Bavaria, Germany – Expat- lifestyle Blogger from the land of Lederhosen & Dirndls. A self-taught Aquarelle & Mixed Media visual artist.
    justbluedutch says:

    Awesome! Are you back in Europe now?
    Been to Rotterdam but never been to Hague myself but I am sure to put this on my list on our next visit. I was already eyeing on going to Scheveningen but i think it´s still so cold to lounge on the beach at this times.

    1. I traveled there in May but it was pretty cold. So wait until summer 🙂 I’m still in Vietnam. The EU haven’t issued tourist visa yet, at least for Vietnamese citizens.

  2. Bama – Jakarta, Indonesia – Based in Jakarta, always curious about the world, always fascinated by ancient temples, easily pleased by food.
    Bama says:

    As an Indonesian, I grew up reading and learning about The Hague (or Den Haag as we call it here, just like how the Dutch call it) because that’s where the most important agreement between Indonesia and the Netherlands was signed — basically the colonial power acknowledging the independence of the young republic. Because of this history, I’ve always wanted to see this Dutch city for myself. A friend of mine who studied in the Netherlands once told me about Scheveningen. What I didn’t realize was it’s actually part of The Hague. Thanks for this intriguing post!

    1. My pleasure. And thanks for the brief history lesson 🙂 When was the agreement was signed in Den Haag? In the case of VN, it was 1954 in Geneva, after the Battle of Dien Bien Phu. It’s interesting to know that the same events occurred in other SEA countries. We studied about it, but not in details. I think only Thailand didn’t went through this process.

      1. Bama – Jakarta, Indonesia – Based in Jakarta, always curious about the world, always fascinated by ancient temples, easily pleased by food.
        Bama says:

        I just googled about the building where the negotiations took place and apparently it was at the Ridderzaal (the Hall of Knights) within Binnenhof. The agreement itself was signed in 1949. You’re right about Thailand. They didn’t go through this because they decided to be a buffer zone between the British and the French. King Rama V relinquished his control of non-Thai lands of his kingdom: Lao-speaking and Khmer-speaking regions were handed to the French, while Malay-speaking regions to the British. This allowed the core realm of Siam to stay uncolonized by any European power.

  3. Alison and Don – Occupation: being/living/experiencing/travelling In our sixties, with apparently no other authentic option, my husband Don and I sold our apartment and car, sold or gave away all our stuff and set off to discover the world. And ourselves. We started in Italy in 2011 and from there have travelled to Spain, India, Bali, Australia, New Zealand, SE Asia, South America, Egypt, Japan, etc. - you can see the blog archive. We travelled full-time for nearly six years, and then re-established a home in Vancouver. We now travel 2-3 months per year. We are interested in how the world works, how life works, how the creation of experience works, how the mind works. As we travel and both "choose" our course, and at the same time just let it unfold, we discover the "mechanics" of life, the astounding creativity of life, and a continual need to return to trust and presence. Opening the heart, and acceptance of what is, as it is, are keystones for us both. Interests: In no particular order: travel, photography, figure skating (as a fan), acceptance, authenticity, walking/hiking, joy, creativity, being human, adventure, presence, NOW. Same for Don except replace figure skating with Formula One motor racing.
    Alison and Don says:

    I’ve been to The Hague, for one day only, many years ago. Your article and photos make me long to go back. Lovely!
    Alison

    1. Thank you, Alison! The Hague is indeed a lovely town. And sorry for the late response. I was bedridden with COVID-19. Have a nice week 🙂

      1. Alison and Don – Occupation: being/living/experiencing/travelling In our sixties, with apparently no other authentic option, my husband Don and I sold our apartment and car, sold or gave away all our stuff and set off to discover the world. And ourselves. We started in Italy in 2011 and from there have travelled to Spain, India, Bali, Australia, New Zealand, SE Asia, South America, Egypt, Japan, etc. - you can see the blog archive. We travelled full-time for nearly six years, and then re-established a home in Vancouver. We now travel 2-3 months per year. We are interested in how the world works, how life works, how the creation of experience works, how the mind works. As we travel and both "choose" our course, and at the same time just let it unfold, we discover the "mechanics" of life, the astounding creativity of life, and a continual need to return to trust and presence. Opening the heart, and acceptance of what is, as it is, are keystones for us both. Interests: In no particular order: travel, photography, figure skating (as a fan), acceptance, authenticity, walking/hiking, joy, creativity, being human, adventure, presence, NOW. Same for Don except replace figure skating with Formula One motor racing.
        Alison and Don says:

        So sorry to hear you have covid. Wishing you a speedy recovery!

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