Taichung City: Discover Taiwan’s Cultural Center

Much of Taichung City’s history is similar to that of Taipei. Taiwanese indigenous people were the first to inhabit this centrally located basin before it was colonized by the Dutch and then the Qing Dynasty. In 1895, the area came under Japanese rule when the Empire of Japan annexed Taiwan. During this time, Taichung ( 臺中市) received a major upgrade. Essential infrastructure, such as roads, dams, and factories, was constructed. As a result, Taichung grew from several scattered hamlets to a center of commerce and culture.

Since the Republic of China (ROC) took control over the island nation in 1949, Taichung has continued to evolve into a world-class city. Though less popular than Taipei, the city is a center of higher education, and commerce, as well as a major tourist destination. In fact, Taichung is often referred to as Taiwan’s Cultural City thanks to its abundance of cultural attractions.

At first glance, Taichung appears as a modern city filled with high-rises and broad avenues. Yet within it exists an Old Town where the flavor of the yesteryear seems to permeate every single street and building. Due to its history, Taichung’s cultural heritage is a mix of traditional Chinese, Japanese, and Taiwanese.

Many heritages in this area bear the mark of the Meiji period.

Taichung Old Town refers to the area around the old train station which was the center of prosperity during the Japanese era. Sought to make it the first “modern” area of Taiwan, the Japanese planned and invested heavily in this district’s infrastructure. Hence, many heritages in this area bear the mark of this time period.

With a nostalgic feeling, I walked through the street grid of Taichung Old Town. Unlike Wanhua in Taipei, the buildings here exude a Western vibe, with red brick walls, granite stone roofing, and intricate design. They reflect the architectural style during the Meiji Restoration, which was defined by direct copies of the European style. Through dedicated preservation efforts, many of these cultural relics remain in good shape. Some are re-designed but still retain much of their old charm. Even the “chessboard” street plan from the Japanese era has also been retained.

On my way back to the station, I made a stop at one of Taichung City’s most popular sweet shops, the Miyahara. Owned by Japanese optician Dr. Miyahara Takeo, this red-brick architecture had been the city’s largest eye clinic before it became Taichung Health Bureau in 1945. As time passed by, the office was suspended and the building slowly fell into demise. Fortunately, Dawn Cake – a local pastry company renowned for its pineapple cakes – acquired the building and preserved Miyahara’s original red-brick walls and archway. A stylish modern glass roof was also installed in place of the collapsed roof.

Pushing through the doors, I feel like I’ve stumbled upon a Harry Potter set. It’s a dreamlike place filled with high-ceiling bookshelves, faux-antique decorations, and opulent chandeliers. However, the main magic lies in Dawn Cake’s signature ice-creams and pastries which enchanted me after the first bite.

South of the Old Town is the Cultural Heritage Park – an open-air art gallery that features multiple styles of art. It’s built on the site of an old beer factory and spans over 5.6 hectares. After the factory moved out of the city in 1998, the government transformed this place into a public recreational area.

Out of 28 buildings in the Cultural Heritage Park, 16 are designated as historic monuments. The remaining twelve are re-designed into exhibition halls. However, the architects only alternate the interior of these buildings. They intentionally retain chimneys, metal frames, and brick walls so that the park’s industrial beauty can be maintained. Even the old water tanks are left intact. They only covered them with new, eye-catching illustrations.

Not every cultural attraction in Taichung City looks old or running down. Standing at the heart of the financial district, Taichung National Theater is an outstanding example of modern architecture in the city. It’s the work of Toyo Ito – a talented architect who is famous for his out-of-the-box thinking.

Similar to the DDP in Seoul, Taichung National Theater doesn’t have any established shape. It appears like a gigantic cube, with wave-formed glass facades running around the building. Its interior is also characterized by powerful, curving structures, for instance, the walls, the stairways, and the rooftop garden. In fact, you can hardly see any straight line or sharp angle in the building.

Toyo Ito wants to build a theater so that people can “feel freedom within it”. By eliminating those linear features, he successfully created a flow of space. He also went a step further and interconnected all the floors, making the whole structure even more spacious. To enhance the feeling of freedom, the Japanese architect brings natural light and air into the building through numerous air holes on the wall. He also let water from outside flow into the theater via a stream on the ground floor. By doing these, visitors can still feel the warmth of light, the breeze of air, and the coolness of the water, despite being indoor.

Aside from its main role as an opera house, Taichung National Theater serves as a meeting point for home-grown designers and artisans. They gather here to present their creations, ranging from wooden toys, and eco-friendly clothes to exotic jewelry.